As meagre as the last few years have been, Arsenal continues to have something special. The Emirates Stadium is a bit cold and corporate, but in a fantastic football neighbourhood where every corner has a story, close to central London.
It was a logical and inevitable step, or so it was thought, for Arsenal to leave Highbury; “too small in order to remain at the top of Europe.” But where the Gunners left the old stadium as a European superpower, the club has not since come close to its former glory in the new Emirates Stadium. Arsenal have not competed for the title in the Premier League for years and although they have a few won cup finals, this has not eased that pain. In terms of performance, Arsenal is currently the third club in London, behind Chelsea and neighbouring rivals Tottenham, but in name and image it is undeniably still one of England's biggest and greatest clubs.
It is understandable that the Emirates Stadium will never match Highbury for Arsenal fans. The design is average and you are also a bit too far away from the field. It has been derisively referred to by supporters of other clubs as 'The Library', which refers to the lack of singing and the minimal number of decibels during matches. Still, it could have been a lot worse. Most importantly, Arsenal have stayed in their hometown of Islington, not making the move to Wembley, a horror scenario that was a very serious option at one point in time. Fortunately, it did not come that far and the Emirates Stadium was built, just a mere 500 metres from Highbury. It is just as busy in the area on match days: when you leave Arsenal metro station, you no longer turn left or straight to Highbury, but instead go right to the Emirates Stadium.
In recent years, the club has made increasing efforts to make the Emirates Stadium more and more Arsenal’s 'own'. Except for a few large shields with club legends on the outside, it still felt a bit cold and unwelcoming. The plateau surrounding the stadium features five statues of key figures in Arsenal's history: Ken Friar, Herbert Chapman, Tony Adams, Dennis Bergkamp and Thierry Henry. Close to the statue of Henry is also 'The Spirit of Highbury', a wall of fame that houses all the Gunners who ever saw action at Highbury.
At the Emirates Stadium, the stands have been given the same names as they did at Highbury: North Bank, West & East Stand and the Clock End. The latter grandstand (on the south side of both stadiums) takes its name from a large analog clock that hung above the grandstand at Highbury until it was demolished. In the larger Emirates Stadium they needed a bigger clock and it hangs here above the Clock End. Nevertheless, the old clock has been moved and hung on the outside of the stadium, in the southeast corner, above the away entrance.
Interested in Arsenal's extensive history? Behind the North Bank is the Arsenal Museum, where you can lose yourself for hours in the history of the club. The museum is also open on match days up until an hour before kick-off.
If there was such a thing as a checklist for a magical stadium, Highbury would tick all the criteria. The Arsenal Stadium (its official name) was on three sides in people’s back gardens and had four different stands with the fans on each side sitting almost on top of the cramped pitch. It made the Gunners literally touchable, but also impossible to expand. The stadium disappeared in 2006, but not completely: The monumental stands were converted into luxury apartments, so that you can still recognise the silhouette of a football stadium from a distance. Unfortunately, the 'stadium' is not open to the curious, so as not to disturb the new residents.
If you walk straight ahead from Arsenal Underground station into Highbury Hill, you will find yourself in an ordinary, neatly tended area of London. But football fans know better. At number 136 you suddenly have a red and white building on your left, completely in the colours of Arsenal. It is the former entrance to Highbury's West Stand.
Take a detour to Avenell Road and you'll be knocked back by the facade of the East Stand, one of the most beautiful in Britain. It is not surprising that it has been on the monument list for years and was therefore absolutely not allowed to be demolished when Arsenal left. On the inside you imagine yourself in a museum, but like the rest of the location, is not accessible. It is actually a shame that this still beautiful complex is not free to visit for Arsenal fans.
Arsenal's move to the Emirates Stadium has shifted the focus of football and pubs a bit to the west, but this part of Islington also remains Arsenal-minded, that much is clear. There are fine pubs closer to the Emirates for a match day pint, but this is our favourite: The Gunners Pub, a stone's throw from Highbury. At the corner of the old North Bank and East Stand turn into Elwood Street where at the end on the left is an Arsenal gem. It's a pub but is actually a sort of unofficial Arsenal museum, with classic shirts and photos, particularly from the Highbury years. Please note, on match days only accessible to people with a match ticket.
Looking for a special football souvenir? Stop by The Match Day Shop (14 Hornsey Road) a stone's throw from the Emirates Stadium. In this shop full of Arsenal memorabilia where you will find more original souvenirs than in the official club shop, especially many items that are reminiscent of the more successful years of the Gunners.
To visit Arsenal you need a membership in 99% of the cases. Exceptions are cup matches against smaller clubs many leagues below, or friendlies. The cheapest memberships are from £29.
You can reach Arsenal Tube Station on the Piccadilly Line from central London, although you can also get off at Holloway Road (closed after the game) and Finsbury Park. The latter station is also a train station, with good connections to the rest of London and destinations outside the city.
Images: BSR Agency, Shutterstock
