London
England
Even the old street name sounds intimidating: Millwall's stadium is located on 'Cold Blow Lane'. But don't be fooled by all the terrifying stories from the past. You must go to The Den at least once.
At the Millwall Cafe everything is as it used to be
You will notice it right away on the stadium grounds: everything here still smells old-fashioned Millwall, the tough London club of dockers and factory workers. Especially at the Millwall Café, a traditional place with plenty of club souvenirs, which is still a popular home for the original Bermondsey residents and - of course - Millwall supporters.
On match days you can also enjoy a beer here, but the Millwall Café is not a pub: It is a traditional English breakfast place. Don't expect a fancy cappuccino here, but old-fashioned filter coffee. A trendy sourdough sandwich with avocado? You can get white beans in tomato sauce.
The Lord Nelson: the origins of Millwall
If you want to fully discover the soul of Millwall, the first thing you should do is head to The Lord Nelson pub on the Isle of Dogs, a few miles east of The Den on the other side of the Thames. Millwall first played their games in the late 1800s on a field next to this classic (and pretty fun) pub. The still-existing pub served as a headquarters and dressing room at the time.
In this part of London, you will find many of the old 'docks' where a large part of the capital (port) industry was located. Even more than in raw South Bermondsey, the rugged Millwall finds its origin here. Fun fact: Arsenal originally played in this part of London.
Bonus tip: The Isle of Dogs also has a lovely plaque commemorating the founding of Millwall in 1885. You'll find it on the corner of Cuba Street and Westferry Road.
Even South Bermondsey is thriving
Millwall has been playing in the Bermondsey district on the south bank of the Thames for many decades. In the immediate vicinity of The Den stadium (near the site where the old 'The Den' was located until 1993) you will still find plenty of junk demolition companies, worn garages and streets where you would rather not walk alone in the dark. The 'No one likes us, we don't care' still kind of feels like a life motto here. But walk a little further away from the stadium and you will find a completely different world.
The traditionally gritty neighbourhood of Bermondsey, originally a neighbourhood with a high crime rate and high unemployment, has flourished and gentrified in the last ten years. This part of London is also home to hipsters, microbreweries and trendy coffee shops. Whether that is good news or not, is up to you to decide.
The Den: not cosy, but pure
No, the word 'cosy' isn't the first thing that comes to mind when you visit The Den, Millwall's stadium since 1993. The atmosphere can still be intimidating, the architecture is quite 'basic' and it is rarely sold out. Yet you feel everything: this is an old-fashioned and pure London football club.
Millwall's club crest alone, with that roaring lion. The dark tunnel you have to go under to get to the stadium grounds. The blue Millwall double-decker bus outside the door. The small cemetery for Millwall supporters behind the stadium. The Den is not necessarily 'beautiful' or 'romantic'. But you feel the sincerity of a club with its own identity.
The Bermondsey Beer Mile
It has nothing to do with the old-fashioned Millwall, but it remains a great recommendation, especially on a football day: The so-called Bermondsey Beer Mile.
A strip that starts at London Bridge train and tube station and runs to approximately The Den, parallel to the track. This 'Beer Mile' is a great collection of small breweries, specialist beer shops and special pubs with an extensive range. An attraction for hipsters, but with a typical South London character. Many shops are located under railway bridges and in old factory buildings: Characteristic of this part of the city.
Bonus tip: Closest to The Den is FourPure Brewing Co., a brewery-cum-beer pub with great local brews. Not an old-fashioned dockers pub, but a lovely place.
Tickets
Buying tickets for Millwall is almost never a problem, unless it concerns a high-risk match against, for example, the enemy West Ham United (for example in a cup tournament). In most other cases, all you need to do is register on the club's official ticket website. Millwall fans can be a bit intimidating towards away supporters but fear not: Most home games go off without a hitch, and more and more families are coming to the games in recent years.
How to get there
Millwall's stadium is easily accessible, as are almost all stadiums in London. South Bermondsey station (overground, so formally no metro) is around the corner, but a walk from the large London Bridge station is recommended. You can immediately catch the 'Bermondsey Beer Mile'.
Images: Shutterstock
