Please note: the end of the legendary Stadio San Siro is near. And by near we mean, in a couple of years. An extra reason to plan your football trip to Milan, preferably for the Derby della Madonnina. And tickets for that world famous derby are quite easy to get a hand on.
It can be windy and drafty sometimes and the grey concrete dominates, but still San Siro is one of the true European football temples you have to visit at least once in your life. Since the legendary Milan stadium will be demolished in a couple of years, you better don't wait too long. If you're there: take the famous cylinder stairs up or down. It's a beautiful sight, a flow of people which makes it look like the towers are moving itself. Once in, you can't avoid the magic of San Siro. A concrete colossus, but with a soul, thanks to it's unique architecture.
What a visit to Milan makes even more attractive: a ticket for AC Milan or Inter is no problem. Even tickets for the derby between both arch rivals is easy to get, just as simple on their own website. Don't forget your passport, it's mandatory in Italy. The Derby della Madonnina is an outstanding experience: fans of both teams are sitting brotherly on the long sides of the stadium, but the stands behind the goal are as fanatic as you'd expect. The curva's of both teams are filled with fireworks and beautiful banners.
San Siro is on a stretched out, not very cosy area, surrounded by a couple of sober housing areas. The advantage is that you can always leave your car somewhere around, but typical football cafes are a rarity around the stadium (fan cafe Baretto 1957 is an exception). Luckily, on match days around San Siro there's a lot of souvenir stalls and food trucks. It creates a real football atmosphere, and just like the Italian tradition, the culinary standards are high. The paninis and pizzas are affordable and very good, covered with good mozzarella and hams. Take your time before the match to enjoy some of the food and treat yourself with a football souvenir.
The newest asset of the football restaurant scene in Milan is from a living Inter legend, Javier Zanetti. Restaurant Botinero (Via San Marco 3) looks slick and is a beautiful mix of a classy restaurant en an enormous load of pictures and shoes of the biggest football legends, former Interisti and of course Zanetti himself. The ideal place to have lunch or dinner on match days, but make sure that you reserve a table: especially when Inter plays at home, they are quickly full.
A real recommendation for football nostalgia in a weekend in Milan: the Arena Gianni Brera in the beautiful Parco Sempione in Milan, in walking distance of Botinero. A classical stadium from 1807 with a monumental façade, where among others Inter between 1930 and 1958 played its home matches. Through the museum in the main building you can visit the stadium, but since 2021 there is played football again as well: ASD Alcione Milano in the Serie D play there these days. A more beautiful place is hard to imagine.
Alessandro Pistone, former player of Internazionale, Everton and Newcastle United, has a good restaurant annex sandwich shop. Pistone himself stands behind the counter and is serving your food: Farinami at the Piazza della Trivulziana.
A little north of San Siro is Casa Milan, a modern and fresh office building, that is the head quarters of the red and black club. It's in walking distance of the stadium, has a good fan store and a beautiful museum. As outdated as San Siro might feel sometimes, so top of the bill is Casa Milan.
If you want to eat a little bit fancier before or after a match, Ristorante Canter is something for you. It's the restaurant of the famous horse racing course of Milan, the Ippodromo San Siro. It's not cheap and make sure to dress properly and reserve on time, but the food is delicious. A good alternative in the area is TOP Carne, for true meat lovers. Fun fact: one of the chefs has a big tattoo of Marco van Basten on his underarm.
Also a recommendation for football fans with a certain budget: restaurant Finger’s Garden in the north of Milan. Most certainly no typical football spot, but a classy Japanese restaurant, since 2004 under the ownership of Clarence Seedorf. With a little bit of luck you run in some former players of AC Milan, or even Clarence himself.
Almost as famous as San Siro is Milanello, the idyllic training ground in AC Milan in the little village of Carnago, about 50 kilometers north-west of the city. It's not open for public, but from the Via Milanello you get a good impression. Also it's not unusual to wait at the gate for the players to get an autograph or a picture with one of your heroes.
Rent a car if you want to see some of the surroundings as well, because the distances in Milan are quite big. Taxis aren't cheap. A rental car gives you also the option to see Milanello, even though it's not open.
If you go by public transport, metro station San Siro Stadio is de westelijke endpoint of metro line 5 and is close to the stadium. After one of the matches you take one of the many trams behind the Curva Sud, back to the city centre.
Images: Giacomo Cosua, SANTOS, BSR Agency
