Please note: the end of the legendary Stadio San Siro is near. And by near we mean, in a couple of years. An extra reason to plan your football trip to Milan, preferably for the Derby della Madonnina. And tickets for that world-famous derby are quite easy to get a hand on.
It can be windy and drafty sometimes and the grey concrete dominates, but still, San Siro is one of the true European football temples you must visit at least once in your life. Since the legendary Milan stadium will be demolished in a few years, you better not wait too long. If you're there: Take the famous cylinder stairs up or down. It's a beautiful sight, a flow of people, making it look like the towers are moving. Once in, you can't help but feel the magic of San Siro. A concrete colossus, but with a soul, thanks to its unique architecture.
One of the biggest reasons to visit Milan is the fact that getting a ticket for AC Milan or Inter is not a problem. Even tickets for the derby between both arch-rivals are easy to get, simply on their website. Don't forget your passport, it's mandatory in Italy. The Derby della Madonnina is an outstanding experience: Fans of both teams are sitting intertwined on the long sides of the stadium, but the stands behind the goal are as fanatic as you'd expect. The curvas of both teams are filled with fireworks and beautiful banners.
San Siro is in a stretched-out, not very cosy area. The advantage is that you can always leave your car somewhere, but typical football cafes are a rarity around the stadium (fan cafe Baretto 1957 is an exception). Luckily, on match days there are a lot of souvenir stalls and food trucks. It creates a real football atmosphere, and just like the Italian tradition, the culinary standards are high. The paninis and pizzas are affordable and very tasty, covered with good mozzarella and hams. Take your time before the match to enjoy some of the food and treat yourself to a football souvenir.
The newest asset of the football restaurant scene in Milan is from Inter legend Javier Zanetti. Restaurant Botinero (Via San Marco 3) looks slick and is a beautiful mix of a classy restaurant and an enormous amount of pictures and shoes of the biggest football legends, former Interisti and of course Zanetti himself. The ideal place to have lunch or dinner on match days, but make sure that you reserve a table: especially when Inter plays at home.
A real recommendation for football nostalgia at a weekend in Milan: the Arena Gianni Brera in the beautiful Parco Sempione in Milan, in walking distance of Botinero. A historical stadium from 1807 with a monumental facade, where Inter, among others, played its home games between 1930 and 1958. Through the museum in the main building, you can visit the stadium, but since 2021 football has been played here again: Serie D side ASD Alcione Milano has made it their home ground. It's hard to think of a more beautiful place.
Alessandro Pistone, a former player of Internazionale, Everton and Newcastle United, has a good restaurant/sandwich shop. Pistone himself stands behind the counter and is serving your food: Farinami at the Piazza della Trivulziana.
A little north of San Siro is Casa Milan, a modern and fresh office building. It's the headquarters of the red and black club. It's within walking distance of the stadium, has a good fan store and a beautiful museum. As outdated as San Siro might feel sometimes, Casa Milan will feel even more so.
If you want to eat a little bit fancier before or after a match, Ristorante Canter is something for you. It's the restaurant of the famous horse racing course in Milan, the Ippodromo San Siro. It's not cheap and make sure to dress properly and reserve on time, but the food is delicious. A good alternative in the area is TOP Carne, for true meat lovers. Fun fact: one of the chefs has a big tattoo of Marco van Basten on his underarm.
Also a recommendation for football fans with a certain budget: restaurant Finger’s Garden in the north of Milan. Most certainly no typical football spot, but a classy Japanese restaurant, which has been owned by Clarence Seedorf since 2004. With a little bit of luck, you run into some former players of AC Milan, or even Clarence himself.
Milanello is almost as famous as San Siro. The idyllic training ground of AC Milan is in the little village of Carnago, about 50 kilometres northwest of the city. It's not open for public, but from the Via Milanello you get a good impression. Also, it's not unusual to wait at the gate for the players to come out, so you can get an autograph or a picture with one of your heroes.
Rent a car if you want to see some of the surroundings as well because the distances in Milan are quite large. Taxis are quite expensive too. A rental car gives you the option to see Milanello, even though it's not open.
If you go by public transport, the metro station San Siro Stadio is the final destination of metro line 5 and is close to the stadium. After one of the matches, you can take one of the many trams behind the Curva Sud, back to the city centre.
Images: Giacomo Cosua, SANTOS, BSR Agency
