Utrecht is the fourth largest city in The Netherlands but is from our own perspective the beating heart of the country. A lively and ‘gezellige’ (cosy and fun) student city. The Galgenwaard of FC Utrecht is the perfect reflection of this image.
‘’Warreme wors!’’ You can hear the sausage vendors from miles away when you are visiting the Galgenwaard. Do not hesitate to buy one of the vendors with their white jackets and buckets full of sausages. It is all part of the experience.
Initially, the Galgenwaard was built in 1936 as a velodrome and only later also became the home ground of FC Utrecht’s precursor DOS. That club merged in 1970 with Elinkwijk and Velox, creating the FC Utrecht we know now. Anything can happen in the Galgenwaard. One week the home team beats rival Ajax in an electric stadium, whilst the next week they will lose uninspired to a relegation candidate. It’s the fate the fans of FC Utrecht have learnt to accept, just like the flaws of their rather modern stadium. Even though it has a roof, there are still places where you can get soaking wet from the rain. But they wouldn’t have it any other way in Utrecht, because complaining is part of the local language.
The glass facade of the Galgenwaard is quite impressive, but when you enter the stadium it is as if you have entered a red sea of fire, especially during the top games. The stadium lives up to the song of Herman Berkien, who sings: ‘’Mooiste plekkie voor mij op de aard, is zondag in de Gal-le-ge-waard’’ (For me the most beautiful place on earth is a Sunday in the Galgenwaard). With its open corners, the steep Bunnik- and Cityside and the beautiful long sides it is one of the country’s nicer stadiums.
‘Uuuuuuuu!!!’ The encouragement from the fans on the Bunnikside is as loud as it can be. The east stand behind the goal is filled with FC Utrecht’s most fanatical fans and is named after the nearby town. Something the mayor of Bunnik was not very happy with, because the ultras used to have a bad reputation in the times when football vandalism was part of everyday life in The Netherlands. In the 1970s and 1980s, the mayor even tried to change the name of the stand, but without much success.
Paris has the Eiffel Tower, Toronto has the CN Tower and Utrecht has the Dom. The old tower is more than 750 years old and has been undergoing renovations for years, however, you can still go to the top. After climbing up 465 steps you will be rewarded with a panoramic view of the city from where you can even spot the Galgenwaard. When FC Utrecht won the national cup in 2003, the players’ bus drove underneath the tower onto the square which was completely filled with fans waving their scarves, flags and pyros.
FC Utrecht has never been crowned champions, but their precursor DOS was in 1958. Near the main entrance, you will find a monument in honour of the champions of that year. However, there is more attention to the 26-year-old defender David di Tomasso who died from a cardiac arrest on the 29th of November 2005 when he was a player of the club. Two clubhouses bear his name (Number Four and DiTo) and Utrecht’s trophy for Player of the Year is also named after him.
Ledig Erf is a twenty-minute walk away from the Galgenwaard and is one of Utrecht’s best squares. Café Ledig Erf and De Poort have been popular hotspots for many FC Utrecht fans before the games. De Dikke Dries (Waterstraat 32) has also been visited by fans for decades.
Mention Marco van Basten’s name in Milan and Italians will start to whimper or scream out of enthusiasm. San Marco was born in the Surinamestraat 49 in Utrecht. The house still exists and a bit further you will find Herderplein, where he practised that volley in the European Championship final and that bicycle kick against FC Den Bosch. For most of his youth, he lived on the Johan Wagenaarkade 72. This is where his father Joop created a tiny museum in Marco’s old room, with a special place for the three Ballon d’Or trophies.
Tickets can easily be ordered on the official website of FC Utrecht after you have created an account.
The Galgenwaard lies on the edge of the city. From Utrecht Central Station you can take tram 1 (the green line) to the tram station Stadion Galgenwaard. You can also take a 25-minute walk to the stadium from the train station Utrecht Vaartsche Rijn.
Images: Pim Ras, Marco Magielse, ANP
