Chelsea is not popular with everyone, but can we play devil's advocate for a moment? The combination of top football, a secretly pretty cool stadium and the location in one of London’s most beautiful neighbourhoods makes Chelsea a must-visit place.
Could we have imagined where Chelsea are now twenty years ago? That loss-making club from West London that never really bothered Manchester United or Arsenal? Roman Abramovich's money has changed everything for Chelsea and set a whole new standard in football, with virtually all the big clubs in Europe now being owned by foreign investors with huge pockets. A club of the London working class and notorious hooligans, suddenly became the example of a high spending club, exemplary for the London and the Premier League now. But the end justifies all means for the fans: Chelsea is twice the proud champions of Europe.
It is where Chelsea have been playing since its foundation and are now somewhat trapped. For a club of Chelsea's stature, it is a bit on the small side (less than 41,000 seats), but expanding is not an easy task. The neighbourhood in which it plays is one of the most expensive in Europe and the residents of the houses so close to the stadium are not enthusiastic to say the least, so much so that any expansion plans have been shelved for the time being. We don't mind at all.
The stadium in the Fulham district – so not in neighbouring Chelsea, as many people think – is easily accessible by metro. Take the District Line to the Fulham Broadway stop, on leaving the station turn left twice and you will be in front of the West Stand of Stamford Bridge. Standing in front of the entrance is the statue of Peter Osgood, a crowd favourite who was nicknamed the 'King of Stamford Bridge' by the public in the 1970s.
Inside, the stadium has everything that makes English football so beautiful: low stands in the club’s colours, places for home and away supporters close to the pitch. There are plenty of reasons to have a healthy aversion to Chelsea and it's hard not to love Stamford Bridge.
It is always pleasantly busy on Fulham Road in front of the stadium around Chelsea matches. The pubs are overflowing, programme booklets and scarves are being sold and people are busy buying or selling tickets. Practically opposite the main entrance to Stamford Bridge at number 477 is the pub 'The Butcher's Hook', a real Chelsea pub. Why is called that? Well, this is the place where Chelsea FC was officially founded in 1905. A plaque in the pub reminds visitors of this special event. There are also beautiful historic photos of Stamford Bridge from long ago. Please note: The pub is only accessible to home supporters, something that is also strictly controlled.
During the most recent refurbishment of Stamford Bridge in the late 1990s, the stadium was almost completely flattened in its original form. Yet a special part of 'The Bridge' has remained, namely the old wall of The Shed End, one of the old stands of the stadium. Today, the wall is hung with tributes to great players from the past, ranging from Peter Bonetti, Frank Lampard and Jimmy Floyd Hasselbaink. You'll find the wall on the outside of the stadium, behind the new Shed End.
Just down the street at number 358 is the pub 'The Chelsea Pensioner'. A Chelsea Pensioner officially refers to residents of the Royal Hospital Chelsea, a care home for veterans of the British army, but in the last century it was often used mockingly for the Chelsea football club, which also had a pensioner in the club’s badge. In 1952, newly-appointed trainer Ted Drake didn't like it and the first thing he did was change the logo, and the nickname became the more generic "The Blues." Chelsea have been playing with a lion on their chest for years now, but The Chelsea Pensioner is still one of Chelsea fans' favourite pubs.
You won't find them on Chelsea match days, but normally the players are at home at Gola, a small Italian restaurant at 787 Fulham Road. A restaurant where, of course, the Italians of the club love to come. Jorginho, for example, was welcomed here as a hero after their most recent Champions League win, but the most special is the story of Antonio Conte in his time as Chelsea manager at home with Gola. He reportedly had a direct line with the owner of the restaurant, who in turn passed on to the manager exactly what his players had ordered that evening.
As is often the case in England, it takes some extra work (and money) to get tickets to Chelsea. There are hardly any tickets in the general sale, so in principle you do need a membership, which is on top of the already not cheap ticket price. However, there are exceptions where you also have a chance without a membership: Cup matches against clubs from lower divisions and matches in the group stage of the Champions League.
You can easily reach Stamford Bridge with the London Underground. The District Line traverses the entire city centre and skims past the branch, and when you step off at Fulham Broadway it's less than a two-minute walk.
Images: BSR Agency, Shutterstock
