It might be Europe’s most famous cult club: FC St. Pauli. The flamboyant stronghold of squatters, punks and left-wing rascals in Hamburg. However, do not be discouraged by the clichés, the magnificent Millerntor should be on your bucket list.
Stadion Millerntor has been thoroughly refurbished in the last twenty years. It does not feel like a refined squat house anymore, but it is still wonderfully authentic and awesome. The renowned landmark, the Feldstrasse Bunker from WWII, is still right behind the northern goal.
The inside is full of street art, stickers and graffiti. A walk around the stadium is an experience in itself on match days. You will not find your typical snack stands. You will find charming pubs with football memorabilia and heavy music. The club’s emblem can be seen anywhere, both the official (with its towers) and the unofficial one (with the skull).
The fact that St. Pauli, a club with a free-spirited and leftist image, tries to cash in on its popularity is perhaps the most surprising contradiction. You can see this anywhere, including in the stadium’s phenomenal fan store. It is like a cave for punks where music is played loudly, but where you will find the club’s most beautiful pieces in the recognisable brown and white. It is ironic how Europe’s biggest cult club has a top-notch commerce strategy. Underneath the stands, you will even find many smaller fan stores (see the photo above).
It is not a bad thing, because St. Pauli does not only have great kits but also original souvenirs, including ‘Alles Drin’: The club’s history wrapped up in a beer can. You will also find plenty of activist tees with anti-fascist slogans.
You can find St. Pauli souvenirs anywhere in this lively neighbourhood, not only in the official fan store.
Millerntor’s unique location might be the greatest thing about the stadium. Right next to the Red Light District of Hamburg, the renowned Reeperbahn. You will drown in all the rock’n’roll and punk pubs, like the famous Jolly Roger. This bar on the Budapester Strasse is a hotspot for St. Pauli’s faithful before matches. The colourful facade with stickers alone is a beautiful sight in itself.
The Reeperbahn is exhibitionistic, flamboyant and flat at the same time. Filled with tacky restaurants, souvenir shops and strip clubs. However, it is quite an experience. First watching a game at Millerntor, then to the pub and then strolling along the Reeperbahn.
The neighbourhood of St. Pauli is not only tacky by the way. You will find many art galleries, unique shops and special pubs with live music. You will not have to step outside of the neighbourhood to experience a perfect weekend trip.
Practically right beside the eastern stand of the stadium, lies the terrain of the Hamburger Dom, Germany’s largest fair. This terrain turns into a large fair full of carousels, food stalls and spectacular rides and attractions three times a year. It only increases the excitement of watching a match of St. Pauli, because it is usually filled with football fans. The Hamburger Dom usually has three editions: One in Spring, one in Summer and one in Winter during the Christmas celebrations.
St. Pauli’s fans are very friendly and will not hurt a single soul, but that does not mean that they will accept any decision. When there were talks of selling the stadium’s name, the fans shut these conversations down immediately. Am Millerntor is and will always be Am Millerntor. End of discussion.
The stadium has, however, been extended, modernised and refurbished in the last years. But you will never change the traditions. During the warming-up AC/DC’s song ‘Hells Bells’ will always blast out the stadium speakers, and goals of the home team will always be accompanied by Blur’s song ‘Song 2’. The club’s motto is ‘not established since 1910’.
Whether football is being played at St. Pauli? For sure, although above all this club will always be a social institution in Germany. St. Pauli’s fans fight for the rights of minorities, refugees and the LGBTQ+ community. The players are expected to show solidarity.
The club has been yo-yo-ing between Germany’s first and third tier as the little brother of the massive HSV, although they have also fallen down Germany’s football pyramid.
The Hamburg Derby is a spectacle in itself, but visiting the match is almost impossible, especially at ‘Am Millerntor’. St. Pauli’s stadium is almost always sold-out, but it is even more difficult to get tickets for the derby against HSV.
Millerntor is almost always sold-out. Pretty much every seat is taken by a loyal season ticket holder. It can help to become a club member, however, this will not guarantee a spot. If you are lucky you might get a seat for a cup game. But do not panic: St. Pauli’s fans are very helpful if they notice that you are a true supporter.
Supporters have a friendly network to help befriended football fans buy a ticket, on the condition that these are sold and bought for the normal price. If you are around, kindly ask some locals in the Jolly Roger. St. Pauli also has a lot of fan clubs worldwide, they might also know how to get a ticket. Anyway, in all cases you should invest your time into building a network, which you could also do through social media.
Some ticket sites or football travel agencies also sell tickets for St. Pauli, but please note that these will cost you a lot more.
Hamburg has an extensive public network, so it will be no problem to get to Millerntor. The Feldstrasse metro station is right next to the stadium and the Fedstrasse Bunker.
Images: Shutterstock/BSR Agency
