Heart of Midlothian. The name rolls so beautifully over your tongue. The football club plays in its stunning maroon kits in Tynecastle Park: A stadium that is horrible to look at from the outside, but remarkably fine from the inside with its steep stands. A well-supported club with a special history surrounded by excellent Scottish pubs.
It might be the most beautiful name in football: Heart of Midlothian, simply known as Hearts. The name derives from the book of Walter Scott (The Heart of Midlothian). The football club was founded in 1874 and is thus Edinburgh’s oldest club. Hearts won four league titles in its history. The last time they won one was in 1959/60 when they won the double, the only team outside of the Old Firm to do so.
Hearts has been playing their home games in Tynecastle Park, located in the western part of the capital, since 1886. The exterior is awful. The former Main Stand used to be quite special – it was designed by the great architect Archibald Leitch – but was sadly refurbished in 2017. The new and modern exterior of the Main Stand looks more like an ugly office building than a football stadium. Only a few walls remain of the stand Leitch once designed.
The inside tells a different story, however. It is quite imposing and a wonderful football stadium given its steep stands, rather unique roof and maroon seats. Besides, Hearts is a well-supported club so the stadium is always well-filled with fans who know how to create a good atmosphere, especially in good times.
Look down at the pavement when standing in front of the Main Stand. You will see a massive emblem of Hearts. However, this is not the original mosaic on which the club based its logo. The authentic Heart of Midlothian can be found on the Royal Mile, the main street of Edinburgh’s Old Town. Do not be surprised if you see people spit on the heart, this is to attract good luck.
When the First World War started, Scotland had a huge discussion about whether footballers should play football like ‘normal’ when the country was at war. Following these arguments, some Hearts players decided to join Sir George McCrae’s battalion. They were the first volunteers to join. Seven of Hearts’ players lost their lives on the battlefield while fighting for their country's freedom and future. A war memorial was placed in Haymarket to remember those who sadly passed away. Each year, the players of Hearts and the fans get together at this memorial. In Tynecastle Park, you will find a statue of McCrae and a plaque to honour the battalion.
The Edinburgh Derby between Hearts and Hibernian is a jewel of the Scottish game. It is the country’s oldest rivalry, but generally speaking, it is good-natured. The hatred from Hibernian towards Hearts was only very large in the years following the ‘Hands Off Hibs’ campaign, where the then-chairman of Hearts wanted to merge with (and basically kill) their biggest rival to create Edinburgh United.
The Tynecastle Arms is your typical Scottish pub. The pub, which is nearby Tynecastle Park, is a popular place for fans to gather on match days. The walls are filled with interesting memorabilia of the club. Bensons Bar, Dickens Lounge Bar, Athletic Arms and Roseburn Bar are other recommendations. Each has character and memorabilia of Hearts.
Hearts played its first ever games in The Meadows, a large park in Edinburgh’s city centre. The park is right next to the University of Edinburgh and is a popular hangout spot among students. It is a great place to enjoy a sunny day.
On the other side of the railway, you can find the grand and old Murrayfield Stadium, which is mainly used by Scotland’s national rugby team. It is Scotland’s largest stadium with a capacity of 67,144. In the past, Hearts has played multiple European and friendly matches here. In 2007, the stadium was the décor of a friendly against FC Barcelona. Around 58,000 Hearts fans showed up to the match. In 2017, the club also played some home matches in the stadium when Tynecastle Park’s Main Stand was being refurbished.
Tickets can be purchased on the club’s official website. Do you want to visit a ‘Category A’ match against teams like Celtic, Rangers or Hibernian? Then you need an active account and a ticket purchase history. Make sure to also order your tickets for a ‘non-Category A’ game in time, because it is not a rarity for Tynecastle Park to be sold out.
Tynecastle Park is a twenty-minute walk from Haymarket train station. From the train station Edinburgh Waverley, you can also take bus 1 or 25 to the bus stop Tynecastle or Gorgie City Farm. This drive will take you around twenty minutes.
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