The old, legendary San Mamés has disappeared, but Bilbao is still a wonderful football city. With a beautiful new stadium, lovely football courts, lots of football bars and the Palacio de Ibaigane, the most beautiful head quarter of Spain.
Football romantics still talk wistful about the old San Mamés (1913-2013), één of the most atmospheric and intimidating stadiums of Spain. But close to where it once was, has risen a stadium which is great as well. Walk to the other side of river Estuary and enjoy the wonderful view, with the stadium rising high above the houses close to the river. The enlightened, futuristic façade reminds a bit of the Allianz Arena of Bayern Munich, but this location is really better. From the inside, there's a lot of atmosphere as well: Athletic has even for Spanish standards a very fiery fan base.
In Bilbao you also go to the famous Guggenheim Museum, which is two kilometres east of San Mamés along the same river. But also the 'Athletic Club Museoa' is worth a visit, under the stadium at the side of the river. The club's museum is beautifully designed and has trophies, shirts and lots of interactive options.
The street behind San Mamés is the Paseo Rafael Moreno "Pitxitxi", named after Pichichi, a legendary former player of the 10s and 20s of last century. About at this street was the old San Mamés located as well, which was lovely called La Catedral by the fans.
That Bilbao is a true football city is something you see at the tons of tiny football courts and small stadiums spread all over the city. Some of them are the Campo Futbol Elorrieta, Campo de Futbol de Mallona and Etxezuriko Futbol Zelaia. The last one, across the river at San Mamés has the most beautiful location and offers a great view of the city. The pitch is from artificial turf, like mostly in Spain. Normally not our preferred option, but for decades Spanish teams played at gravel, because of the climate. Then we prefer the artificial turf.
An absolute must-see for football fans in Bilbao: the Palacio de Ibaigane in the heart of the city. This beautiful building in neo-Basque style of architech Gregorio Ibbareche is since 1988 the head quarter of Athletic. From the inside, there's a lot of wood and stained glass. All important meetings and gatherings of the club are here, but also several compartiments of the club work at the three levels of the building. The flower garden is in the club colors, the crest is immured above the door and in the garden the club flag is waving.
Typical for a real football city: in Bilbao there's lots of places where you can eat and drink in a real football decor. We advise 'Peña Athletic del Casco Viejo', a great diner slash fan café in the heart of town, at the Pilota Kalea 7. Basque specialties for a good price, with lots of Athletic pictures and souvenirs on the wall.
Also nice: Bar Athletic close to San Mamés, a small cocktail bar. A little further you find Gol Taberna, a charming small football café when fans love to come.
A little outside of the town, in the hills south of Bilbao, you have the Athletic Taberna at the Pagasarribidea Bidea. It's a little bit obscure and run-down, so check if it's still open.
In San Mamés you can also find La Campa de los Ingleses, a beautiful designed sports bar.
You can buy tickets for matches in San Mamés on the club's official site. Don't be shocked of the prices for matches which are a little further ahead in the future, that means that only the sale of VIP-tickets has started yet. The regular sale will start later.
There's barely parking space around San Mamés. No, to this stadium you come by foot or with public transport. Luckily the metro of Bilbao runs nearly under the stadium. Srtop Santimami/San Mamés is with the metro just a couple of minutes away from the city centre.
Images: Shutterstock, BSR Agency
