Good food, lovely wine and a attacking style of play: in San Sebastian (or Donostia, like they say in the city) there's a lot things that tickle your senses. Real Sociedad is one of the two big clubs of the Basque Country, where the Basque traditions are of great importance.
The outside of Estadio Anoeta was once white, but had turned brown for years already. Yes, the home of Real Sociedad could use an upgrade, to say the least, not to talk about the track court and the distance to the pitch. Over the last years, the stadium had been renovated till the beautiful Reale Arena it is now: a real football stadium with fans close to the pitch, royal blue seats and a waving roof.
If you walk along the Maria Dolores Aguirre Kalea and walk onto the Plaza de Campo de Atotxa you might not realize it immediately, but here, close to the city centre, is the place where Real Sociedad won their only two league titles in the eighties. And indeed, when you know it you see it: the tower blocks which surround the square are exactly built in the square shape of the in 1993 demolished stadium. At the north side of the stadium there is bar Tribuna Norte, named after the former north bank of the stadium, and with old pictures of the stadium on the wall.
One arrow for a goal against La Real, two arrows for a goal for the hosts. It's a beautiful tradition known for decades, to update the city of the current score in Anoeta. Because of the coming of internet and live television, the tradition has lost a bit of its importance, but still after every goal someone runs outside to lit off the fireworks.
San Sebastián is beautifully located at the Bahia de la Concha (the bay of the shell), with a beach which encloses the bay almost entirely from open sea. When the tide allows it there's people playing football, and once a year the school football tournament of the city takes place there at the best decor ever. At the end of the boulevard is Playa de Ondarreta, where La Real played her first matches, and a certain Xabi Alonso learned to play football here as well. The Spanish world champion has come back to the city after his career and lives close to this beach as well.
On the square in front of the Reale Arena there are two statue standing, of which everyone in San Sebastian knows the meaning. One is for the most beautiful time in the club's history, the other one for the darkest day. There's a bust of Alberto Ormaetxea, a former player who won as manager both league titles of Real Sociedad. The other one is Aitor Zabaleta, the fan of La Real who got stabbed to death in Madrid by a fascist fan of Atlético Madrid. After 25 years, the memory of him is still kept alive.
San Sebastian is the capital of the pinchos, a Basque sort of tapas who are traditionally served on skewers with a piece of bread. In the narrow streets of the old town you can eat them anywhere: in scenic bars like Ganbara, Txepetxa and Paco Bueno you can run into Xabi Alonso as well.
A typical Real Sociedad restaurant in the old town is José Mari, a lovely Basque restaurant with the club's crest on the wall.
Around the stadium it's usually early busy on match days, in the bars around Plaza Aita Donostia. From the terrace of Bar Gol Taberna you'll have a great view of the Reale Arena. Look at the beautiful photo on the outside wall of the bar: an image of the Basque derby of 1976, when Real Sociedad and Athletic de Bilbao came on the pitch with a Basque flag, at the time a still forbidden sign in Spain.
Through the button ‘Entradas’ on the website of Real Sociedad, you can easily buy tickets for home games. Even for the fiery Basque derby against Athletic de Bilbao you can buy tickets in the general sale.
The parking space around the Reale Arena is limited, but the best chance to find a spot is at the Donostia Arena, the hall near the Reale Arena.
It's easier to get there by metro. From station Amara-Donostia you can take in a couple of minutes the metro to Anoeta-Donostia, right in front of the stadium. From the city centre it's about a half an hour walk.
Images: Shutterstock, BSR Agency
