One of the best things of a weekend in Valencia is that you're assured of football. Next to the traditionally bigger Valencia CF, the city is also the home of modest Levante, the small club who reaches great heights from time to time.
We can't say that the history of Levante is that impressive. The red and blue club of Valencia played throughout the history mostly in the Segunda Division, something which even Johan Cruyff couldn't change. But in the 21st century, Los Granotas (the frogs) have managed to work on their reputation. They don't just play at the top flight for some years now, they also have become a real giant killer: Real Madrid and FC Barcelona have been coming to Levante with feeble knees.
The Estadi Ciutat de Valencia is already in use for more than 50 years, but has undergone a drastic metamorphosis recently. All stands are covered now, a privilege what used to be reserved for the main stand. Bear in mind that in Valencia, it's more for protection against the sun than against the rain. The stadium is for Spanish standard not really special but is a real football stadium, with room for 25.000 fans. One the one hand, the roof robs the stadium from the beautiful backdrops with tower blocks, but on the other hands it gives Estadi Ciutat de Valencia a more distinguished appearance.
On the Gol Orriols stand behind one of the goals, theres two blocks which have on the upper side two rows less than the other blocks of the stadium. A strange sight, with a special story. Of all the land owners around the newly built stadium, one of them - allegedly a Valencia-fan - didn't agree with the plans and refused to sell his land. The farmer stood his ground, which blocked the plans to build on this tiny piece of land, and the Estadi Ciutat de Valencia got this strange bite.
Before the match you can have a drink at Bar Avenida, at the Carrer de Santiago Rusiñol 26. The owners are real fans of Levante, and within a two minute walk you're at the stadium.
That Spain sometimes is a very superstitious country, won't probably be a surprise for you. At Levante, every year they go with the whole squad to the Basilica de la Virgen de los Desamparados, at the Plaça de la Virgen in downtown Valencia. The players bring an offer to the holy virgin, hoping for another year without concerns about relegation.
For the best paella you have to go to Restaurante La Pepica at the Passeig Neptu, the boulevard. Someone who couldn't get enough of it was Faas Wilkes, who came as a player for Valencia to the city, and later became manager at Levante. The Dutchman came to eat here several times a week, and they clearly haven't forgotten about him: in the restaurant you'll find multiple photos of one of the first foreign football stars Valencia had seen.
You can buy tickets for Levante on the website of the club, or at one of the fan stores in the city. Don't be shocked when you see the ticket prices, in the bottom half of La Liga, football isn't quite cheap either.
The stadium is situated at the northern edge of the city, which makes it good to reach by car. Parking can be a challenge sometimes. You can get there easily with public transport too: tram 6 stops in front of the main entrance of the stadium (stop Estadi del Llevant). Metrostation Machado (line 3 and 9) is a 10 minute walk away.
Images: Shutterstock, BSR Agency
