Actually, Valencia should already had been playing in a brand new stadium for years, but that ended up being the biggest fiasco ever. We don't mind: Mestalla is one of thé classic football temples of Europe and Valencia is a lovely city to spend a couple of days.
You can't imagine these days that during the construction of Mestalla back in 1923, it was situated a little bit outside of the city of Valencia. But the city grew, and nowadays the biggest stadium is quite central in the city, surrounded by high tower blocks. Unlike other giant Spanish stadiums Mestalla isn't built in a ditch, which causes that the stadium with 55.000 seats towers high above the streets. On the inside, you'll start to understand which this is such a beloved stadium. The steep, uncovered stands, the old main stands, the lights above the highest row and the giant scoreboard: Mestalla is a gem like no other.
The mother of all stadium failures. Valencia have played already for 15 years at Nou Mestalla, but things turned out completely different. The structure of Nou Mestalla was nearly finished, but then was paused because of the economical crisis of 2008. Meanwhile, we're already 14 years further, not a single thing has changed and club and the city argue about who has to open their wallet. The 'stadium' at the Carrer de la Safor is waiting for a solution, but there's still a long way to go until Valencia will play its first home game here. If it happens ever at all.
According to the Valencians it's the most beautiful square of Europe: we don't want to go that far, but it surely is a beauty. On this Plaza d'Ayuntamiento, the heart of Valencia, celebrate Los Che their titles. When the players appear on the balcony of the majestic town hall, the square is completely packed.
A little bit further on the square (in front of number 7) it all started for the club. Here was, back in 1919 Bar Torino, the café where Valencia CF was founded. A tile on the sidewalk marks the place where it exactly was. verderop op het plein (ter hoogte van nummer 7) is het allemaal begonnen voor de club. Hier zat in 1919 Bar Torino, het café waar Valencia is opgericht. Een grote tegel op de stoep geeft aan waar het precies was.
Just around the corner at the Avenida de María Cristina, you'll find the 'Bear Club', a pub where the interior of the old Bar Torino is recreated. Notice the club crests on the outside of the pub.
Prior to home games of Valencia, you have to be at the Plaza del Valencia CF, diagonally opposite the main entrance of Mestalla. Here do the fans gather before the match, especially for big games. Then there's thousands of people here to welcome the coach with the players, and encourage them for the upcoming match. Next to the monument for the fans of Valencia, there are three lovely football bars: Naast het monument voor de supporters van Valencia zitten er drie heerlijke voetbalkroegen: La Deportiva, the Ciudad Real and the most beautiful of all, the bar of Manolo el del Bombo.
The bar of Manolo el del Bombo is actually more a football museum than a bar, with wonderful photo's of the history of Valencia and Spanish football in general. But also Manolo - the famous drummer at Spain's international matches - had to suffer during the corona crisis, and had to sell his bar. The good news is that, despite the bar is a little bit more trendy now, the new owners didn't change too much at the interior of Manolo, and at match days Manolo is sometimes still present as well.
In the fifties of last century, Faas Wilkes was the first international star who came to play for Valencia, and with great success. His secret? Twice a week the best paella in town, at Restaurante La Pepica, along the boulavard. The memories of Wilkes are kept alive by photos on the wall and by the owner, who proudly tells the story to every Dutchman who enters the place.
Just like at most Spanish club, you can get tickets at Valencia quite easily. After you've created an account, you can order them on the official website of the club. Even for big clashes with Real Madrid and FC Barcelona, but then you have to be quick after the ticket sale starts.
There is some parking space around Mestalla, but because of the central location, there's almost never a free spot, especially not when Valencia plays at home. The best thing you could do is take the metro, metro line 5 and 7 pass by station Aragó, one block away from Mestalla.
Images: Shutterstock
